Nagzira Tiger Reserve

This is first time, writing a tour report. A group of jungle lovers, you guys call me as ...

Jim Corbette National Park-2009, 2010 and 2011…. Last year May, WildAllure made 2 Jungles… Pench Tiger Reserve and another one was “The Land” of Tigers Tadoba Andhery Tiger Reserve.

And this year team members are determine that, Wildallure should explore a new Jungle, the name, Nagzira was sounded good while we are in a group discussion. Every jungle tour needs a very well coordination with the booking of Jungle Safaries, Forest Rest House booking and with the jungle rules. Planned our trip, keeping mind that, Wednesday is a holiday in Nagzira.

17^th May, Saturday, WildAllure moved on. Debtapas (Ziru) reached Howrah station at evening and got a call from Champa that she was waiting at platform no. 22. It was raining heavily.  Sumanta came with his tough and disgusting “dari baba” look. He was all wet. Somnath da, Boudi and Subhamoy da reached around 19.30 hrs. We had to catch Mumbai Mail, scheduled at 20.15hs. On the same day, Subhankar (Jet) started his long and lonely journey from Puri, our rendezvous was Gondia Station.

There was nothing to remember on train, only Ziru lost our dinner and then found that from coah warden. He found a “thonga” and kept that in his locker, that “thonga” was full of 3 packs mixed nodules and 3 packs chicken Manchurian. Thank God, that was not lost.  The train was on time, we reached Gondia Station at 12.15 hrs. but Subhankar’s train was running late by 2 hrs. A Scorpio was waiting for Wildallure. We did not waste time.  There was a Punjabi Dhaba, near by the station, we had taken our lunch there, foods were delicious, we ate whatever we cloud and packed the rest for Subhankar(Jet, sorry for that “Bacha-Kucha” foos). He reached around 2.30hrs and we started towards Pitajari Gate.

The Main Road in Forest: Taken by Subhankar

 

That was a 1.30hrs road journey, we reached at Pitajari Gate around 16.00hrs and after formality done, entered at the forest. Had our bookings at the main FRHs near Canteen. Taking a small and half-hearted Jungle Safari, Coz off our Scorpio was over loaded with the food and drinking water bottols L , we reached there around 17.30 hrs. We had allotted at MadhuKunj, Latakunj and one Cottage. There was a VIP rest house named Niloy, not available for general tourist and other one is Log-hut, is available if the group is small (4/5 persons). Log-Hut is the best for its location. At evening, our two Gypsies entered at the campus and reported us that they will stay with us for rest of the days.

Watch Tower in front of Madhukunj: Photo curtsy to Subhamoy da

Latakunj: Framed by Subhamoy da

 

Niloy: from Canteen area: Thanks to Subhankar

In canteen, normal food is available, roti, rice, dal makhani, egg kari etc etc. During our staying, we did not face any problem with the food. Solar electricity is available to some extent, but most of the nights, there was a dead fan hanging from the wall and all of us were sitting outside the room despite knowing that the Leopard had entered at the Campus, his presence could be felt.

We reached Nagzira on Saturday evening and from Sunday morning, our safari was going to be start. In between, we can share some stories about Nagzira. This wildlife sanctuary is located in Gondia district, in the state of Maharastra, nearest city is Nagpur. Around 116 Sq.Km. area has been announced for this park, and in 2012 it has been included in Tiger Project. The total Jungle is divided into 3 zones, Zone A, Zone B and Zone C or New Nagzira. Right now, Dendu, son of male tiger Rastropati,  is the King of this forest.There is a story behind the name Dendu,  when he was a lil cub, his tail was ran over by a Gypsy. He grew up and showed his anger all time to the Safari Gypsies, he was named Dangerous, which one was nicked “Dendu” later on.  The queen is A-Mark, 11 yrs old tigress and the mother of Jay and Veru. Both the cubs are male and 3 yrs old in age, separated from their mother on last February. Veru was sighted last time on March, while he, with his brother, killed a bison. From then there was no news about Veru, it is assumed that may be in a territorial fight, Veru lost to his father and went somewhere else or killed. Now Jay, bold and handsome, is the prince of the jungle. There is another tigress, Alfa, is roaming with her 3 six month old cubs, till now she is searching a safe zone for her cubs. When we reached there, the tiger sighting was on with jay and A-Mark. In New Nagzira, Dendu’s sighting was on. Alfa (with her cubs) was never sighted by the tourists, though her presence was recorded by the Forest Authorities. Her pug marks, followed by lil ones were noticed many times by the guards/ tourists. Earlier, Alfa was present at Old Nagzira, now she shifted herself, with hers cubs to New Nagzira. Actually she felt some danger from Jay. Till now this, we will explore some exciting news later on.

A look of the Forest

Sunday Morning, 6.00 hrs, we were excited about our first safari in this forest. We got the B zone as our rout. We were happy with the B zone, last evening A-Mark was sighted in B zone. The jungle was dry and a massively different from the northern indian forests, greens are dull, the yellow and grey over powered, it has a rough and tough look, its beauty is its boldness. Birds were everywhere, their melodious song created a rhythm in the silent forest. First time we sighted Dhole, the Indian Wild Dogs. Sighting them was an experience, they came to drink some water in the artificial water holes, made for the wild animals in the forest, they were in a group of 12/15 in numbers. Took some rest, gave some look and then returned on their own way. Suddenly we heard some calls, our gypsy rushed towards the sound. Many other ones were waiting there, some guys pointed towards a bush, saying tiger…tiger. But we could not see any tiger. Then, Ziru and Subhamoy da noticed some movement far away. Yes, it was a tiger. A-Mark was sitting there, woke up and moved on towards dense. They saw her from the back side, only for a fraction of second. Not upto the satisfactory level, but they saw her and so we did. We returned at 11.00 hrs to our campus, that was the closing time for morning safari. Safari was exciting.

Red Wattled Lapwing 

Sambar Deer

 

Indian Wild Dog

 

Indian Wild Dog

 

 Wild Boar

The temperature was around 50 degree C, weather was too dry to protect our skin. We took some rest and got ready again at 15.00hrs for our afternoon safari. This time we got the A zone. We went at the far end of zone A, towards Nagzira Lake. The beauty of the forest was non ignorable, hills and lake creates the magical beauty. While returning, the light was low, we took a turn as the road curved and Somnath da whispered “Leopard”…. And then “another one…oh my God another one”… our driver Guddu finished “Sab, aur ek”…. We experienced 4 Leopards, crossed the road. They were taking rest on the roads and we reached there on time, seeing us they were disturbed and left the place as soon as possible. Believe me, they were too fast to capture. Subhamoy da and Subhankar managed some snaps from which we can prove that we saw Leopards during that jurney. No tress of Jay or his mother. Just near the campus, we informed that A-Mark was resting on water-hole named “Buddha-Buddhi”. We rushed there, but a minute late, The Majesty left that place before we reachL.  We saw the water hole and no sign of tigers as far we could see. Sunday was not bad, we experienced leopards,  and that was special, because before this we never experienced them.

Indian Gaur

 

Indian Peafowl

 

Indian Pitta:Navrang

 

Indian Wild Dog

 

Indian Wild Dog

 

Our Ancestor

Solar power failed at around 21.00 hrs, we had our dinner with the help of torch light. At canteen we got the bad news that, Jay left this area and went to New-Nagzira to build his own territory, and He was sighted there with his father. A group was there, took some snaps.One of them displayed all the pics in his camera. Just in front of our cottage Madhukunj, there was a watch tower. We enjoyed the dark beauty of Nagzira Lake. With the torch, we saw some deer were around us, moving, loitering, and taking rest.

“A-Mark… the tigress …why she is named A-Mark?” probably Subhankar asked. Well the answer is this tigress has a “A” mark on her rear right leg. Her natural black stripes made this mark on her leg naturally, this is unique. And she named A-Mark. She has a sister, named “A-Mark-II”, she has a “A” mark on her body also. But in her case “A” mark is placed on front left leg. Right now where she is nobody knows.

It was mid-night, and Subhankar pushed Ziru, made him awake…."Listen, there is a Leopard call"….where ..??... listen..listen… yes ..it was… in our Campus ?.... oh my God… is that door closed ?... just close the door first …” Subhamoy da closed that. Searching with torch was in vain. Sleep was over. Rest of the night they were sitting on chairs, placed on Verandha.

Monday morning, all of us ready for safari. This time we got the B zone again. We got the Indian Pitta, Navrong in Hindi, a wonderful bird to watch. Indian Roller gave some look and other birds made the safari. No tress of A-Mark. And somehow we felt that the jungle was sad. There was no news of any movement, there was no calling. May be its for Jay, he left the place. We returned canteen early, Sun was too ruthless to us. We got the news, a gang of Wild Dogs just killed 3 spotted deer in the grass land, behind our canteen. Just ran over there. There was nothing, no dogs, no deers, even not a single bone of deer. The time was laughing to us, again we were late.

Indian Roller

 

Indian Roller

 

Rufous Treepe

 

Bhraminy Starling

 

 Gold Fronted Leaf Bird (Record Shot)

The decision was made, that, we would go New Nagzira(Zone C) at afternoon. We started before 15.00hrs, got the permission from Ranger, caz of we were going Zone C, which is 25km away from the canteen area. Tressing of Dendu and Jay was started. We had 2 gypsies, first time we separated, Ziru, Somnath da, Subhamoy da and Boudi stayed near a natural water source, favourite place of Dendu and rest of us, in other gypsy, went to tress Alfa. Indian Gaur was sighted, The Bold and The Dark Handsome was standing just in front of our first Gypsy, his family and cubs had to cross the road !!!.... they waited, they crossed and the male one made the road for our first gypsy. Somnath da and team waited there long time but their wait was in vain, they were getting late, had to return at canteen by at least 18.30 hrs. The hope was lost for Dendu, they did not have any news of our other gypsy, they rushed towards Old Nagzira (Zone A and Zone B). Other gypsy met with them on the middle of road. We were 15min late and were forgiven. The return journey was really a storm creating race.

Black Hooded Oriole

 

Common King Fisher

 

Debtapas and Sumanta: In Action: Curtsy to Subhamoy da

 

 Dholes: Taken by Subhamoy da

Now the news of our other gypsy. They  almost reached to the den of Dendu. It was listen from the forest guards, Dendu was coming to have some water and seeing them he returned. My friends were late a minute about. Seeing Dendu, the guards ran towards their van and Sumanta, Champa met them. There was an officer also present there. On request of Champa and Subhankar, the kind officer opened his camera and let my friends to enjoy the secret snaps of Alfa with her 6 month old 3 cubs. That was a really achievement. No body see Alfa with her cubs, no photographs even published on net and Subhankar, Sumanta, Champa and Boudi made that journey.

We were having some snacks just outside the canteen, another shocking news reached. A group went to New Nagzira at morning. They witnessed a fight between Jay and Dendu. We saw the video they captured; clearly it was a territorial fight between father and son. At the end, Jay was lying down and Dendu was moving around him and roaring. It is known that in a fight, if one tiger is lying down and other one is moving and roaring that means he is saying “It is my territory, you get lost from here”. And this had to happen, Alfa was there, so Dendu cannot take any risk, he wants to secure them first, and for that he can do anything. Jay was lost to his father, if he is claver, he will leave that place, will move out somewhere else. Otherwise he will be killed in hand of his own father. Unfortunately Nagzira is a small zone and the King is Dendu right now. A tough time is waiting for Jay in future. This is the Nature.

 

Spotted Deer

Bassa, one of our gypsy driver had to leave for his personal reasons and Mannu and our main guide Iswar had entered, they came and met with us, till now we were moving radarlessly. They came to know that, till then, we took 4 safaris and yet to sight a tiger !!!!....Iswar announced that “Aplog tiger se bagh rahe ho…. Tiger yeha pe wait kar raha hai, aur aplog kahi aur time barbad kar rahe ho”. Actually our first guide was new in his job and he did not know even the jungle very well, that was a tragedy of this tour till now. Okay, it happens, right now we had the best guide of the forest :) .

Champa Rani For-Forani

 

Rupa: She served a long time for the forest, now she is old

 

 The Mystic Road: Framed by Subhankar

During this afternoon safari, A-Mark was sighted at water hole no 7. Some gypsies were lucky to get her closely. One guide told that may be A-Mark is pregnant and looking for a quiet place. Guide "Ishwar" & Driver "Guddu" confirmed mating with Dendu 20/25 days back...few people also saw her at "Budha / Budhdhi" Waterhole & discussing about her Belly at Canteen with Close ups. If she is carrying then may go to core area / closed for the visitors. But according to experts, “simply seeing mating does not confirm a tigress pregnant or conceived. She mates more than one tiger within her territory encompassing others. One can surely say a tigress conceived when she is in her last few days before she goes into exile to give birth. It is between 95 and 100 days a tigress is known to give birth to cubs. When a person judge a tigress for being conceived even after 45 days, it is impossible. The teats are visible after 80 days that is nearly 13 to 14 weeks after she is impregnated. This is the time and visible signs for to judge a tigress is pregnant. At this schedule she nearly is due. Soon after and within few days she suddenly disappears in thick jungle or any other secluded place where in she finds her new born cubs to be safe and secure.” Lets hope for the good news. We may hear some news on October, when the jungle will open after rains.

Leopard: Credit goes to Subhamoy da

 

"Subhankar...Hats of to you.... Tui je shutter ta release korechhili setai jothesto...."...Debtapas 

The electricity was off, the room turned into Blast Furness. This night, Ziru told, he had to sleep. Subhamoy da was in the room, Subhankar and he put their beds at Varandha. Forgot about the Leopard, they just knew that they had to sleep well, basss.  The sleep was sound ( they got the calls from the Leopard, he made his presence, they felt that. He entered at our campus and patrolled the area.)

Tuesday morning. Only 3 safaris were left. Our one gypsy got the A Zone and other one took the B zone. We were desperate. It was decided that all of us will try to tress A Mark and we will inform each other at pre-determined time. So our “vag-daur” was started. Yesterday evening, we were informed that, the Lady was sighted for 3 hrs at water hole 7, A Zone. So we went there, if she returned. But no… She didn’t.  Wild dogs were around water hole no 7. Where the dogs were present, tiger would never come to that place. Surely she moved around somewhere. Other gypsy also failed to tress A Mark. Only a wild boar could be remembered throughout our that safari.

We were irritated. Tour was coming to its end and we missed every opportunity of sighting tigers. The good news came to the canteen. One group went to Zone C and while returning, the noticed Jay’s Pug marks on the road side. Hope, He was returning to his own land.

At the break time, we enjoyed the dance of Asian Flycatcher, Black napped Monarch gave some poses. A herd of deer was waiting for us, when we would come and they could gave some jumping poses!!! … They were some refreshments to us in that sad mood.

Asian Paradise Flycatcher: Immature Male

 

The Black Napped Monarch: Juv.

 

Asian Paradise Flycatcher: Immature Male

 

 Asian Paradise Flycatcher: Male :)

After noon safari. We separated in A and B zone. The formula was same like morning safari. Run…run and run… we gave all the efforts to A Mark. But it is seriously very very tough to tress a tiger if he/ she want to be in disguised. A Mark was last sighted yesterday, from then she vanished, no movement and no news. We got a herd of Neel Gai, but they were very shy and denied to give pose in front of camera. We returned, our other gypsy enjoyed two Leopards, light was low and Subhankar and Sumanta failed to take snaps this time :( .

The Last night in the forest. Till now no tiger sighting, but we were happy with the Wild dogs and Leopards. We were sitting at the canteen, enjoying stories from Guddu, Mannu and Iswar. Mannu made another debut, if A Mark is not carrying; she might be in search of Dendu and might be moved towards the New Nagzira. It is also possible. Seriously we were at Nagzira , when the whole Jungle was suffering from a unstable period. Every tigers were changing their position at every moment. It would be better to be settled down as soon as possible for the shack of wildlife of this jungle.

Right then a gypsy entered at the canteen, they were late enough. It was almost 19.15hrs. And the exciting news reached. They went to zone C. They sighted nothing there. What a Bad luck to them. No Dendu, no Alfa and no Jay. While returning to canteen, at the evening they got the Prince of the forest. Jay was walking in front of them, he was returning to the Old Nagzira from new one. They could not overtake him, that is the rule, never you can disturb them, this is their home. They enjoyed the cat walk for almost 45mins and then Jay moved from the road and entered to the forest. What a luck to them !!! … They were heavily late by the time. They reached canteen around 17.15hrs but nothing to do. We enjoyed all the snaps they had taken and were happy with the news that, Jay returned to his den …. The sighting will be on from tomorrow …. And tomorrow, the morning safari would be going as our last our last safari at Nagzira. Hope for the best.

Wednesday, 5.45hrs.Somnath da talked to Ranger and told him that it would going to be our last safari and till now no tiger sighting.  And both the gypsies got B Zone. Actually surroundings Nilay, Jay’s favourite spot, and that is under B-zone. We tried our best, Iswar and Mannu were their best level in searching of Jay and that our bad-luck. A-Mark and Jay were never sighted throughout our tour. But we got the news that, Jay entered at his own den, a forest guard saw him. Actually he was tired, he travelled around 30km in one night, and rest was badly needed to him. Dhole were sighted again, this time they killed a Sambar Deer. We missed the hunting but abled to watch them with their kill. That was a unique experience.

Crested Hawk Eagle

 

Crested Hawk Eagle

 

Crested Hawk Eagle

 

 Dhole with their Kill, Sambar Deer

We returned to Canteen area. Tour was finished. In nagzira, all the guides and drivers knew us, all of them were unhappy, they thought, it was their fault that they failed to make that most wanted situation “Tiger Sighting”.But we know this could happen at any time at any forest. These are not in our hand, it is the Nature at its best.

It was adieu time. We reached Pitajari Gate around 17.30hrs and rushed to Gondia at 19.15hrs. Ahemadabad Mail was on time and arrived at 20.00hrs. Dinner was not disgusting but we had to take.

 Subhamoy da, missing Kolkata: taken by Ziru

Jay was returned. But what about the others? Is A-Mark carrying? Is Alfa safe in New Nagzira?  Will Dendu return at Old Nagzira? Is Jay safe at Old one also? Veru … where is he … Injured? Killed? Happily settled somewhere? So many questions and no answers.

Got the call from Mannu, Jay was sighted; he came out at evening and gave the sighting on main road, then walked to the water hole and then returned. Everybody was happy.

We reached Kolkata, joined our office, but could not forget about the tour. It is only to me, somehow, methinks, this tour was incomplete and it has to be complete as soon as possible.

 Ziru: captured by Sybhamoy da

3 day ago got the news…"Sirji, barish chalu, jungle closed. Sir, Dendu returned to Old Nagzira, and you know, he came with Alfa and with her cubs. Both of them were sighted. A-mark was sighted also. Nagzira is full on. Sirji, come again bye"… Iswar cut the phone. What a news, the King returned and with his full family. Now A-Mark is also going to be very happy. Old Nagzira is going to be for them. But what would be happen to Jay ? Again he is in danger. For his safety, he has to move out again. May be he will shift again to New Nagzira.

Jungle is closed right now and will open again in October. We are sure during this six month, A-Mark will be pregnant. In October we will receive a call from Iswar/ Mannu/ Guddu, "Sirji, A-Mark is carrying and Alfa is giving sighting with her cubs. Dendu is charging the gypsies. Jay is happy in New-Nagzira. When you guys are coming?"

Yes, we have to go. Only listening the stories and enjoying the images of Alfa, Dendu, A-mark and Jay  cannot be the end of this journey. We have to go back to Nagzira again. Yes, we are coming as soon as possible……..

Hope, our next line will be. "Yes, Dendu charged our gypsy, A-mark was sighted, Alfa and her cubs were happily roaming in the forest…. Cheers …."           ........WildAllure.........

                    To be Continued ………